On Namibia

No picture today. Picture uploading isn't allowed in many internet cafes. I've tried to get around it only with limited success. So I'll just talk for a moment...

...about how great I think Namibia is as a travel destination. This country's geography and population is quite diverse, and I believe you could get similar experiences in this one country to all (save Ethiopia) of the other countries I've visited combined. Yes, Namibia has it all. Sure, it may be a little more expensive. Come to think of it, sometimes it's less. Regardless, you get a much higher quality of everything. The infrastructure is fantastic compared to points north and east. In most towns, you'd think you were in a European or American city. I think I've missed the developed world as sad as that sounds. I've missed the less hassled life. I've missed the get what you pay for, not having to worry about being swindled at every turn. That's Namibia.

Even though I know Namibia offers such diversity, I've only really taken advantage of one aspect, one unique to this land: the endless desert. One day I'll upload the photos which might do some justice to the amazing experience that is the desert. I was often reminded of the deserts of the American southwest. However, every desert is unique. Though they always seem to call me. Their vast expanses, endless horizons. The play of light and color as the day progresses. I'm enchanted.

We rented a car for our exploration. Bruce and I split the driving, quickly learning to handle shifting gears left-handed with steering wheel on the right. It won't make much sense without pictures and since I only have a few minutes left at this internet cafe, a laundry list:

-Sossusvlei. Tons of sand dunes and valleys where rivers ran long ago. Camping at Sesriem was super cold, hot, windy, and dusty all at once.
-Naukluft mountains. Above the desert. Views to mesas. Awesome hike. cf. Bruce's blog.
-Swakopmund. German resort town on Atlantic. Windy and cold mostly. But nice the morning we went quadbiking and sandboarding. Again cf. Bruce's blog.
-Windhoek. The capital. Hot hot hot. Make arrangements. Get stuff done.

sunset

sunset
Originally uploaded by arutgers03

Goodbye Botswana. Don't know what to say about you. If I hadn't done all the awesome safari's in central and eastern africa, you would be pretty worthwhile. But instead, you're just expensive and a repeat. No fault of your own, of course. You're not here to amuse me. I just wish I had skipped you for more time in South Africa or other greener pastures.

Robbed!

Couldn't be in Johannesburg for one night without some mishap. We were staying in a hostel right next to the airport to catch our very early morning flight to Namibia (where I'm writing from).

We stupidly left our luggage next to our dorm beds and went out for a few hours. (Security had been so automatic on our trip for so many weeks, we had totally let our guard down when on our own. Not that we could have done a whole lot since the place didn't have lockers-- a must for sleeping in a dorm room in a hostel.)

When we woke up, Bruce found his trusty (expensive) fleece missing, some money gone, and stuff in his bags thoroughly out of place. The zipper on one of my bags was broken fully unzipped, so I only lost the easy use of one bag-- I tied it up for the flight here. I think they must have gotten scared off when they got to my bags because I could tell they were invaded only superficially. (Also my iPod and camera weren't stolen.)

So that sucks. More for Bruce than for me, but both of us are a bit shaken up. I'm looking forward to a great time in Namibia. The desert is calling. I guess we're fortunate something more serious didn't happen in Jo'burg, given its reputation as a very dangerous place.

Zimbabwe dollars

Zimbabwe dollars
Originally uploaded by arutgers03

So yeah, Zimbabwe. Poor Zimbabwe. Well really, rich Zimbabwe (compared to its northern neighbors) going through an economic period rivaling Weimar Germany.

So listen, changing money on the street is illegal. I read some time ago that police were really cracking down on this practice, effectively stamping out this black market. BUT the reality in border tourist town Victoria Falls is totally different.

Official exchange rate Zim$29,000 = US$ 1. This is the official rate you get at the bank and the only legal rate in Zimbabwe. But we gave our money to our Zimbabwean cook/guide and he traded it (on the street) at Zim$250,000 = US$ 1. Illegal it may but if you know what you're doing a must. That is, in places that charged USD, they would require the Zim$250,000 rate if you paid in Zim$. And unless you want to pay US$10 for your soft drinks, you had better find a way to get a lot more Zim$ for your US$. Amen.

So (yes, I say "So" alot. so sue me.) the photo shows the 80+ bills we used to pay for a dinner for three. Exciting I know, carrying a money brick in your pocket to pay for one meal.

Whitewater Riverboarding

zambezi
Originally uploaded by arutgers03

Riverboarding is awesome!

What is riverboarding? Strap yourself to a boogie board, don a lifejacket and fins, and ride through the rapids instead of on top of them.

I rafted in the morning and riverboarded in the afternoon. I wish I had known how much fun riverboarding was. I would have done it all day. If it weren't so expensive, I would have gone each of the last few days I've been chilling in Livingstone, Zambia.

It's such a rush the first time through the rapids. I bet it would be still fantastic on repeated trips. You don't know how long each rapid will be, how many times you'll get swallowed in the waves. With the floatation devices attached to you, you don't stay under for long. But long enough to make it exciting and fun. Awesome, awesome, awesome...

There were even a few standing waves that you could swim into and "surf" for as long as you can hold the position. I totally am going to look into this when I get back.

Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls
Originally uploaded by arutgers03

So Vic Falls is one crazy place. From the picture you can see it's quite a waterfall, even in the dry season. The pictures of the fall in the wet season looks like a wall of water falling miles long. This photo was taken from my 15-minute helicopter ride, my final costly "adventure" booked in made-for-tourism town, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

"Zimbabwe?" you say with a look of surprise. Yes, Zimbabwe. Not real Zimbabwe, just the border town where they milk visitors. The tour truck took us directly to Shearwater Adventures, where I forked over $220 to walk with lions, riverboard/whitewater raft, and ride in a helicopter over the falls.

Welcome to the animals

welcome
Originally uploaded by arutgers03

There are now lots of picture of animals on flickr. I don't know the names of any of the non-super-common ones. If you can identify them, make a comment, please.

At 6am, I was amazed by the number of different animals we saw and by the numbers of the animals themselves. Watching the pack of elephants cross the street in front of us was unreal. I kept thinking of deer-crossing signs in the US for some reason.

At 8am we went for a walking safari. We mostly saw a lot of tracks and even more scat. You can learn a lot from scat, but there's only so much scat you can take. I don't know quite how to explain the ecology of termite mounds, but they look like they're really something. Sounds a bit like bees with a queen and all. After all the scat, we were treated to some close-up zebra and giraffe viewing, including a nursing baby and mother.

At 4pm, we got to see many of the same animals in the beautiful dusk setting. Once, we turned a corner and an elephant family was right in front of us-- a little scary, but exhilarating. The flock of red birds was brilliant, much more so than i can show in the picture.

At 6pm, we started the night drive. We saw very little in the dark for the first hour and a half. Then we got treated to civets and a family of lions just before heading back. I don't know quite what to say about seeing a lion in the wild other than amazing. Even at a distance under the flashlight the lazy male looks so regal.